Abidjan, Cote d'Ivoire - 28 Mar 08 to 5 Apr 08

My arrival in Abidjan marked a turning point in my visit to West Africa. The first half of the trip was focused primarily on musical study in Guinea and Mali and related travel to better understand the cultures where the music comes from. From Abidjan across to Lagos, I followed a coastal trail through the most densely populated urban region of Africa, taking a quick survey of all the countries and their big coastal cities along the way, which lasted about 5 weeks.

I spent about 10 days in Abidjan, Cote d'Ivoire (the Ivory Coast). My original plan was to visit the family of my step-mom's brother's wife, who is from the country. A couple days before I was to travel, I telephoned to confirm my arrival and heard that the entire family had gone at the last minute to a remote village far removed from Abidjan. Their grandmother had also passed away, less than 3 weeks after mine. Being unable to visit them and knowing noone in the country, I decided to just take it easy and see what I could see.

Cote d'Ivoire is still struggling to free itself from the aftermath of a destructive civil conflict that started in 2002. Although there is no more active fighting going on, many unresolved issues remain. Many of the outlying areas of the country, particularly the north and west, are still controlled by rebel groups. The economy, once renowned as one of the strongest in Africa, is now a shadow of its former self. But the people on the streets are still open and friendly, as people are almost everywhere. I decided to contain my visit to the capital city only, as things upcountry are still questionable at this point and I had no Ivoirian contacts to accompany me. So I spent my days relaxing, doing lots of catching up on the internet, getting visas for onward travel and most of all walking everywhere I could, all over the massive city of Abidjan, getting glimpses into life in some of the various neighborhoods. The pictures that follow were collected in my various pedestrian wanderings across the city.

The Abidjan city skyline at night, on my first evening in the country. The city of Abidjan wraps itself around a large semi-coastal lagoon and the central tongue of land known as Le Plateau is the heart of the city, home to all its highrises. Here is a view of Le Plateau from across the water in Blockhaus, the small neighborhood I stayed in for the first several days. Blockhaus is part of the larger Cocody suburb (remember the song Cocody Rock by Alpha Blondy?)

My room in Blockhaus. Aren't those puppy-dog sheets so cute?

Some graffiti around Blockhaus, threatening to beat (frapper!!) anyone caught urinating on this wall. These painted warnings are very common across West Africa, although they usually have a posted value that one must pay as a fine if caught urinating.

The sign reads: "Village Community of Cocody Village. Sacred Site. Entry Prohibited."

My first full day I took a walk from Cocody all the way around the lagoon into Le Plateau. This billboard promises hope for building a peaceful future in Cote d'Ivoire.

One of the fancier houses in Abidjan I saw, this mansion overlooks the lagoon.

A view across the lagoon with Cocody on the left and Le Plateau on the right. The tower on the left is the Hotel Ivoire.

St. Paul's Cathedral, designed by an Italian architect. Abidjan is proud of its architecture, with many unique buildings being found here. The tall figure on the left that serves as the portal to the church is an abstract representation of Paul, and the sweeping robes that follow him are the body of the church.

A stained-glass mural inside the church, depicting the first arrival of European missionaries to Africa, coming to spread their religion and culture in a new land.

On my way into town, I passed a wedding in full swing on the rented outdoor patio of the library. The security guards invited me in to enjoy the festivities with everyone. Here wedding guests are dancing to the DJ's selection.

More architecture in downtown Abidjan. This famous building is called Le Pyramid. It is now unfortunately run-down and in need of renovation, which is supposed to happen sometime soon. Once home to many shops, everything inside the windows I could see was demolished and nothing looked open.

Abidjan's central mosque.

A view of downtown.

Bats circling overhead just before nightfall.

Another day I went to walk around the grounds of the once-majestic Hotel Ivoire, formerly West Africa's top hotel. Things are quieter these days, although the hotel is still open.

The now-empty pool of the Hotel Ivoire.

Anyone for a swim?

I shot this photo looking through a lamp at the evening sun.

This smaller pool on the other side of the Hotel Ivoire complex is still functional.

A view from the Hotel Ivoire grounds of the bridge from Le Plateau across to Treichville.

Another day I walked from Cocody north to Les Deux Plateaux, a retail district that is also home to many embassies. On the way I passed this outdoor barbeque place, once the spot to eat out with friends but now looking pretty empty with only a few stalls open. Notice the Maggi advertising painted all over its walls. Advertising for Maggi and their competition Jumbo are omnipresent in West Africa. Maggi makes cooking stock that is chock-full of MSG, and people put it in everything from soups to sauces to chicken glaze to salad dressing. Their slogan is "Me and Maggi, the secret to goodness".

A more low-rent district of Abidjan, found in a low-spot inbetween the Cocody and Les Deux Plateaux areas.

Another day I went to visit Cote d'Ivoire's National Museum. There were many cultural artifacts from the country's various ethnic groups on display, and a guide gave further explanation as to their significance.

In addition to the displays on traditional life in Cote d'Ivoire, there were a few modern pieces by the renowned 20th-century Ivoirian artist Christian Lattier. This piece is entitled "The Ram".

On my way back home from the museum, I passed through some densely populated central neighborhoods and then crossed over the major freeway back to Cocody.


On the way I bought some street food, which is normally wrapped up in old newspaper. The lady I bought these snacks from, however, used these large leaves.

Freeway-Land, Abidjan.

The last few days I spent in Abidjan I moved across the water to the district of Treichville, on the south side of the lagoon. One day I walked past the outskirts of the neighborhood down toward the port, and got a glimpse of Industrial Abidjan.

Trucks waiting to ship goods all over the region.

Moss growing on a factory gate.

My hotel in Treichville, "Le Success".

A shot from the balcony outside my room.

The internal square of the big market in Treichville. A cool place to hang out. Right outside and across the street are some of the best outdoor food-stalls around. My last night in town I treated myself to a jumbo shrimp-and-turkey sandwich, constructed with freshly grilled ingredients bought from the local vendors.

After Abidjan, I caught a series of taxis to the border with Ghana, my next stop on the Abidjan-Lagos route. Ghana will be the subject of the next posting coming up soon.